Reflections on a Troubled Homeland

 

Toronto Star, Ontario ed.
BODY AND SOUL 
Sunday, May 5, 2002

Since arriving in Canada 13 years ago, I have been returning to visit my homeland of Pakistan at least once a year. It helps me stay in touch with my roots and also allows me to keep a keen eye on the political pulse of this volatile country.

As I traveled to Karachi a few weeks ago, I was a bit apprehensive because since Sept.11, Pakistan has been in the eye of the storm. Pakistanis in North America, shaken to the core, have been galvanized into discussions and forums that have demonstrated support for eradicating terrorism and bringing about reforms. But I had no idea how people in Pakistan were reacting.

I discovered the mood there is strange and seems unnatural for a country on the brink of nuclear calamity, faced with a massive crisis within its own ranks and a raging war in the neighbourhood.

The educated elite- representing a small but powerful section of the community- seems to be totally in denial and talk about designer outfits, jewelery and decadent parties. It was the wedding season and Monsoon Wedding is not even close to the kind of pomp and glamour everyone's competing with. At one wedding, close to 10 tons of fresh flowers were used and then left to rot on the street. Outfits cost anywhere from $1,000 to $1,500 U.S.- and that's just for the guests. The bride's designer outfit can cost from $5,000 to $20,000.

With this crowd, there's little chance of a conversation about the realities of life or grassroots issues like human rights. Besides, I felt a bit decadent staying as a guest in a house with two cooks, two maids, two chauffeurs and two gardeners. I mentioned this to my sister and she justified it by saying she has two daughters-in-law living with her, so the need is for two caretakers for each. I think the real reason is that young people in upper middle-class homes can't carry a dish to the sink or (God forbid) clean bathrooms. Privileged Pakistani women who rely on the tailor and the domestic help are lost when the servants don't turn up.

I managed to hold my tongue and not rock the boat. After all, it's a great holiday when one is not involved in any physical or mental exercise. I got tea in bed every day, my choice of menus for lunch, tea and dinner, read magazines, had a facial, saw what wealthy people in Third World countries do for leisure, and generally soaked up the "club culture." After three days, I was ready to climb the walls, so I found a computer and logged on to world news.

My only intellectual stimulation was an invitation to speak at the Rotary Club in Karachi about my involvement in interfaith outreach in Canada. On the day of my talk, I donned my public speaking cap and checked my notes for signs of blasphemy. I had been warned not to venture into deep water. I think my family was concerned that I might say something controversial and spoil their social standing. Me controversial?

With this crowd, there's little chance of a conversation about the realities of life or grassroots issues like human rights. Besides, I felt a bit decadent staying as a guest in a house with two cooks, two maids, two chauffeurs and two gardeners. I mentioned this to my sister and she justified it by saying she has two daughters-in-law living with her, so the need is for two caretakers for each. I think the real reason is that young people in upper middle-class homes can't carry a dish to the sink or (God forbid) clean bathrooms. Privileged Pakistani women who rely on the tailor and the domestic help are lost when the servants don't turn up.

I managed to hold my tongue and not rock the boat. After all, it's a great holiday when one is not involved in any physical or mental exercise. I got tea in bed every day, my choice of menus for lunch, tea and dinner, read magazines, had a facial, saw what wealthy people in Third World countries do for leisure, and generally soaked up the "club culture." After three days, I was ready to climb the walls, so I found a computer and logged on to world news.

My only intellectual stimulation was an invitation to speak at the Rotary Club in Karachi about my involvement in interfaith outreach in Canada. On the day of my talk, I donned my public speaking cap and checked my notes for signs of blasphemy. I had been warned not to venture into deep water. I think my family was concerned that I might say something controversial and spoil their social standing. Me controversial?

With this crowd, there's little chance of a conversation about the realities of life or grassroots issues like human rights. Besides, I felt a bit decadent staying as a guest in a house with two cooks, two maids, two chauffeurs and two gardeners. I mentioned this to my sister and she justified it by saying she has two daughters-in-law living with her, so the need is for two caretakers for each. I think the real reason is that young people in upper middle-class homes can't carry a dish to the sink or (God forbid) clean bathrooms. Privileged Pakistani women who rely on the tailor and the domestic help are lost when the servants don't turn up.

I managed to hold my tongue and not rock the boat. After all, it's a great holiday when one is not involved in any physical or mental exercise. I got tea in bed every day, my choice of menus for lunch, tea and dinner, read magazines, had a facial, saw what wealthy people in Third World countries do for leisure, and generally soaked up the "club culture." After three days, I was ready to climb the walls, so I found a computer and logged on to world news.

My only intellectual stimulation was an invitation to speak at the Rotary Club in Karachi about my involvement in interfaith outreach in Canada. On the day of my talk, I donned my public speaking cap and checked my notes for signs of blasphemy. I had been warned not to venture into deep water. I think my family was concerned that I might say something controversial and spoil their social standing. Me controversial?

When I questioned Pakistanis I met about the cruel and constant persecution of minority Shia and Ahmadi communities and the brutal massacre of Christians, most responded that I was overreacting because I'd become too Westernized.

"Pakistanis could never do this- it's aliens," one person actually told me. "You don't know- Daniel Pearl was a spy," they said about the Wall Street Journal correspondent, who was kidnapped and murdered earlier this year. That theory was also suggested by others. I felt sick but congratulated them for having advanced from "Zionist or Indian conspiracies" to this "artificial intelligence" idea.

From all that I heard, read and saw, it seems the masses are totally confused about whether to support the liberal view of the present government and risk being labelled "secular" (which is like abuse) or to follow the hate-spewing Mullah in the mosque. While trying to eke out a miserable living, they are being brainwashed into justifying terrorism and blaming everyone else for the problems facing Pakistan today.

In this atmosphere rampant with stereotypes of "the West," America is the common enemy of both the elite and the masses. But not without hypocrisy- as all and sundry line up to dine on fast food at McDonald's or KFC. While the affluent may be quick to bash America, they also have no qualms about vacationing in Florida or standing in line for days so their 3-year-olds can get admission to The Karachi Grammar school, a Western symbol. It's also a status symbol to send kids to The American School or spend millions of rupees to educate them in America.

Despite my deep concern about martial law in Pakistan, I had taken strength in the fact that leader Gen. Pervez Musharraf would soon call elections and that maybe for once, my homeland would be headed towards a true democracy. Many Pakistanis in North America were willing to accept him as dictator for another five years if he continued to fight state-sponsored terrorism within the country. But these hopes were shattered with news that the leader had exchanged his military dictator cap for the multi-coloured plumes of a politician.

Now I see no hope because I believe a sham democracy is worse than a true dictatorship. But I continue to love my country of birth and will return whenever I can. I criticize only because I care and want to see things change to promote personal accountability, tolerance and moderation.

 

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